China Cycling Travelogues
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Copyright © Rob Luxton, 2006
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Rob Luxton’s adventure on a three wheeled recumbent tricycle - April | May | June | July
China wheelie! - April
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Google Earth: 22 17 09.91, 114 09 04.88
MapQuest: 22° 17' 09.91" N, 114° 09' 04.88" E
For those of you that have been checking everyday to see if I have actually left yet. I'm sorry, I'm still here. I've been in Hong Kong for so long now that my toes nails seem to have taken root and are preventing me from leaving. However, with the help of a trusty pair of clippers, I am making the last snip on Tuesday and will be heading off into the unknown. The bike is as heavy as an ox. All of the things I'm taking add up, creating a steel horse that will only move with an engine, dragging its heels at the same time.
Little unnecessary extras have been discarded and my pants have been reduced to a minimum.
Please stay tuned for exciting news on sock quantities and other weight saving measures.
This is the view from my office building where all preperations are taking place.
17 apr '06
T minus 16 hours (or something like that)
Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
Still trying to pare down to the minimum. Got boxes of stuff, things in lovely piles, objects that fluctuate between them, unsure of which pile to call home. All I know is that they can't go on the bike, no matter how attractive they look.
1. Throw away
2. Give away
3. Store
4. Put on the the wheelie Island
Little wheelie is full. Just hope the wheels don't fold in.
Feeling nervous, yet very excited. Van arrives at 7am. Getting a ferry to the mainland to a random border. Will tell you all about it tomrrow. Hopefully from in side Mainland China.
Went camping at the weekend. For those of you that don't know Hong Kong, its not just one big city, theres great nature too. Wild unspoilt beaches, and rolling mountains that poke their webby feet into the sea. Here are a couple of the creatures that inhabit these parts. You can only spot them in the early hours of the morning. This is the time when they are half blind and don't see you approach.
Managed to capture these two specimens and have trained them to carry heavy bags across borders.
Been trying to put my company on hold. Due to my superior time management abilities, I was able to do most of my accounts on the ferry going back home whilst dropping off boxes. It was all fine until the ferry vibrated so much that my February's and Decembers joined force in a hyperactive dance. Back to square one.
18 apr '06
Eye eye
Gaoming, Guangdong Province
A good start. The ferry to Zhaoqing wasn't happening so ended up going to Gaoming. This is about 100km west of Hong Kong. Had a rude awakening to maybe what is to come. Ordered instant noodles on the ferry. Was quietly choffing away when mike pulled out something from his soup. After closer inspection and a lot of gagging we realised it was actually an eye lid. Not an eye lash but an eye lid. Haven't gagged like that since my old dog Duke used to leave me presents on the kitchen floor. Maybe it was put in there as a treat.
Border crossing was really easy, really fast and quiet. Most of the officials were more concerned with honking my horn, figuring out how to steer it and asking the price. After a quick demo around the immagration fore court we headed off in search of a bed and some food. Tomorrow I say good bye to Jay and Mike and head off into the hills.
The pace here is really relaxed and friendly. Everyone is smiling and saying hello, great to be back in China. Love it. Can't wait to start pedaling.
19 apr '06
Recumbent Tricycle for SALE
Sanshui, Guangdong Province
Had enough, going home. One tricycle going cheap. Will part exchange for a motorbike.
Only joking..... what a day, bloody knackered. Not exactly bike fit yet but managed to cover about 50km, much of which seemed to be done in circles after dubious directions from locals. Locals kindly pointing in any old direction as if they knew. Some did, some didn't, but in any case I arrived in Sanshui. The direct translation means- 3 water. Might have something to do with the rivers in these parts. Just a wild guess.
Reving the engines
Set off at 8.15 this morning after a warm farewell from Jay and mike. Thanks guys, much appreciated. Oh...and thanks Mike for dropping my safety flag down the lift shaft. Lucky I've got a 7ft neon spare.
It was an odd experience indeed heading off into who knows where. With my bright neon flag fluttering in the wind, combined with me riding the most ridiculous machine possible, bar a child's tricycle. I was sure to stick out like a sore thumb.
Met some great characters on the road. Golden toothed old men carrying baskets, truck drivers, school kids and policemen. Even got challenged to a race by an old lady on her flying pigeon. Embarrassing to say it but I lost. If I knew how to say in Chinese "I have a long way to go and I'm already knackered", I would have done.
Everyone expects me to be going really fast, as if I'm some kind of mini sports car. What they neglect to notice is the engine powering the car. A two stroke non combustion engine. That will change though. Its going to have to as this is the easy bit, in a few days its all up hill.
At one point a moped pulled up alongside carrying a girl and boy brandishing a television camera. They asked me to pull over for an interview.
I really wasn't expecting to get spotted so early into my journey. I explained to them what I was upto and that this was infact my first day. They seemed as pleased as punch. Scoop story or something.
... they stalked me for a few kilometers, filming from the back of the bike. I did some trick moves and a back flip for the camera.....and off they went.
Got lost trying to cross a bridge. Not sure how as it was huge. Discovered a temple by the river and a dog that gave chase. My Dazer dog device was buried somewhere in my bags so I pedalled like the clappers.
Sanshui has tree lined streets that end abruptly and hectic speakers and shops begin.
Managed to find a cheap hotel room that was too small for my trike..... ummmm the problems with 3 wheeled transport begin. Had to upgrade to get a bigger room, but as this is my first day I don't really care. I just needed rest. .....I still had to drag it in on its side through the door though. It does have its plus's though. Gentle cruising, giving a great position for viewing the surroundings. Which of course is what its all about.
After today's riding experience I'm not too concerned about traffic dangers due to me being so low. Everyone sees me. What I am worried about is me causing other people to have accidents due to them waving at me as they go past and not watching where they are going.
Can't quite get to grips with the language. Keep having to flick between Cantonese and Mandarin. My poor little brain can just about cope with one, but two languages is making it implode.
In my room. That one is for you mum and dad. xx
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20 apr '06
Its damn hot
Qingxin, Guangdong Province
Google Earth: 23 44 05.63, 113 00 47.7
MapQuest: 23° 44' 05.63" N, 113° 00' 47.7" E
Distance : 79.35km
Days are starting to merge in with each other and its only the second day. Woke quite late today. I was aiming for a nice 6am start, but as it was I rolled out of the hotel at about 10.30am. After listening to the most hectic directions from the receptionist, I headed off in search of my next bed. (damn this keyboard is frustrating, this computer seems to type by itself). Spent about 20km on the main roads until I started to get bored and spotted the river I'd seen on the receptionists map. She offered to sell it to me for 6 yuan but I am starting to penny pinch so declined. Bad move. All I had to do was follow the river. Simple right ? Well the road went all over the place. Had to rely on my compass and directions from locals. Just to let you know that a compass is more reliable. Some people don't even know where they are. I passed through some of the areas where if there was an H5N1 bird flu pandemic, it would start there. Geese what I saw ? lots of guess's . Or is it the other way around. Duck farms and geese swam in infinite ponds scattered everywhere. Very tranquil indeed. I was glad I cocked up on the directions. Hit the right road again and started up hill. Passing by what seemed to be the same bush every 2 meters. Had to stop and check at one point. Even took a cutting, much to the bemusement of a passing motorist.
My Chinese map combined with my Nelles map does little in the way of helping you navigate once you get off a main road. Nobody seems to know exactly where anything is, or if they do in which direction. Compass. ! Thank god for magnetic North. How it knows I'm not sure but what an amazing invention........ yep. just checked online. Its a Chinese invention.
So with my legs gradually turning to jelly and pushing past the 50km mark I start to debate where I will sleep. Nipping down the side of a Toll gate and scaring the attendant, I discover I'm exactly where I should be. Unthinkable. Only 30km away from the next city. Taking a back road I trundle through the most shabby town imaginable. People stripping copper from the inside of old wires, oil cans and tyres everywhere. One shouted hello so vigorously and smiled so much that I did a U-turn and bought water and had a chat. Met the brother, the wife and the dog. We all looked over my map, discussing the best route to Shaoguan.
I was warned of mountains, bad roads and bandits after 7pm ... but he had an answer. A different route taking me through beautiful scenery. His brother told me of a beautiful area too and pulled out a brochure for a housing development. All lovely and photoshopped bright unnatural green. The other brother scoffed and said that I wouldn't find that kind of thing attractive as its not nature. He was right.
They kindly gave me noodles, a bottle of water and off I pottered.
By 6pm I was really starting to fade and feeling somewhat down. Apprehensive about my journey ahead. Entering Qingyuan restored my faith in humanity. I have never received such a warm welcome in all my life. Everyone greated me, mopeds, buses, cars, trucks and last but not least an old man that was my shepherd through the city. The traffic was really heavy but I didn't care. I had a sheild of traffic following me along. No worries. The old man steadily pedalled beckoning me on and catching me up. He was with me all the way. He even convinced me to keep on going to the next area Qingxin where the hotels are cheaper.
Found a cheap one that my trike could fit in no problem and had a great feast next door. I may stay here for the day tomorrow and brush up on my Chinese as its really embarressing. I can get by but missing out on so much.
Qingyuan and Qingxin get my vote as the friendliest places so far.
21 apr '06
Dilemma
Qingxin
Breakfast this morning. Cheung Fan Qingxin style. Its kind of like a very light pancake scrapped off a tray so it goes all wrinkly. Sounds terrible but tastes great.
Well, my plan to study didn't really happen. Spent quite a lot of time today trying to find my mini hotel. I wasn't paying attention and before I knew it all the streets looked alike and I was lost.
That one is not the best example of Qingxin life but at least you get idea of some of the random places I visit.
Been sat in a this Internet cafe for quite some time now trying to figure out the best route tomorrow. Up into the mountains or a slow meander but a longer way round. Good old google Earth. Instilling panic into my legs as I see whats ahead. I now have a point of reference with regards to my own endurance.
View from my window
All the people who know me will know that I am not actually a cyclist. I normally cycle from my house in Lantau to the ferry pier. This amounts to about 1km each way. One could say that its not exactly serious training for the whole of China. I always knew that I would have a rude awakening and the last days have given me just that. But it can't be impossible, its just a case of pedalling, inching my my forward until I am super fit and able to fly over mountains ??? I am generally very fit so its just a matter of time before all my muscles expand and pop through my shorts.
Nothing like a bit of positive thinking before going to battle.
Day by day, inch by inch, hill by hill, bowl of noodles by bowl of noodles.
Amazing how efficient the human body is. For the price of a few noodles and bowls of rice I've traveled 120km. Absolute bargain in my opinion.
All buses should be pedal powered. Everyone on the bus could wear toe clips, chip in a couple of yuan for noodles and off you go. The future of transport and the solution to pollution is here.
22 apr '06
Who put that bloody big mountain there?
Yangshan - One days ride as the drunken crow flies.
Google Earth: 24 28 46.08, 112 37 40.05
MapQuest: 24° 28' 46.08" N, 112° 37' 40.05" E
I was supposed to cycle about 70km today. I set off early at 6.30am, deciding not to go to Shaoguan after all, deciding instead to head directly into my worst nightmare. I headed towards the mountains, and Qingxin is at the foot of some big ones. What I was most concerned about was entering a region that has nothing, nothing but supposedly bandits. The road went slowly up, relentlessly up. And up and up. Again I found myself on a busy road.
There was plenty of space and safe enough. All around me the scenery was gradually changing, becoming more and more hilly by the second. A quiet road was running parallel to the main trunk road and after double checking with some locals, I decided to get on it. The locals had told me no. It doesn't go where I want it to. I didn't believe them this time though. It was obviously going somewhere and my map said it would take me directly to a random spot in a valley called Shitan. This is where I planned to spend the night.
The back roads are fantastic except that I seem to be attracting Water Buffalo with my flag. Something that is slightly unnerving. Guess its very much like a red flag to a bull. I’ve heard it said that it’s the movement not the colour that catches their eye. Well mine is flapping about like a hyperactive parrot.
Climbing up and up I wandered how so much rock could be in one place. Numerous 4x4 jeeps passed by whilst I crept up the hill like a leggy snail, in my 2x3 all terrain pram.
A wave always ensued and the occasional photo opportunity of the weirdo in the wheel chair, wearing a silly hat. After a few hours I hit the top and came cruising down the other side. Yes ... This is what its all about. Down hill. The trike is super stable up to the 45km/h mark then it starts to wobble. I wont try that again. I cut my whiz short as some fantastic scenery unveiled and I screeched to a halt.
A lush valley with tree covered nobly mountains poking out like oversized teeth on a gappy child. Stunning.
I met a couple of old men who were totally intrigued by the trike. Then I was off. Bombing through the paddy fields that meandered through the rocky landscape.
Now I said that Qingyuan and Qingxin were friendly, but mountain people are even more so. Everyone smiling, children running out to great me and wrinkly old people, who have no doubt seen their fair share of strange things, waving at me like I was the circus coming to town. As I came closer to my resting point I passed through one small town based entirely on the edge of the road. Was this Shitan?
Hope not as it was insane. By passing through I practically turned the place upside down. There could have been a major disaster for all the noise they made. Motorbikes beeping, people shouting, laughing, smiling. Total Chaos. Good chaos. It felt like I had just back from war as a hero. Then it was over. Back to pedaling. Trying to find Shitan. One old man gave a big grin so I pulled over and bought some water. Before I knew it I had the all the village children around me and a big meal laid on for me. They wouldn't accept a penny.
Still nobody knew exactly where Shitan was. There were no hotels in the previous village so I carried on. And on, and on, and up, and up again. I had to make a decision, to find a bush hugging the mountain to sleep under or continue on until I reached Yangshan. Basically doing two days ride in one.
...and so I continued.
The road chiseled out of the mountain wound its way up. It turns out that it was the tallest mountain in the Guangdong province. That's just not what I had in mind. It was so beautiful though, I'm glad I did it.
I was traveling so slow at one point that I even had time to watch a spider repair its web. Although I was slow I was making progress, and at the same time enjoying the view. I think if I had to do it on a normal bike I definitely would have seen more of the road than the mountain. Considering that I wasn't on a mountain bike, in the mountains, I think the trike did remarkably well. It was done in comfort too, apart from my knees nearly popping off of course.
And up 'little wheelie' went, passing heavily loaded trucks with steam coming off their brakes as they inched their way down.
For those of you who are keen cyclists and like statistic of a ride, such as ascents, descents, Kilometers and Altitudes...... Here you go.
It was bloody high, bloody far, and bloody great.....That should just about cover it.
Then it was whoosh, about 15km down hill, into another lush valley to shock the locals. Most encounters follow a simple 3 second rule. They see me, they stare, they are shocked, and then they react after processing what they have just seen and then they smile, laugh or say hello. I get to see most of this in my wing mirrors as I fly past.
I think the Americans got it wrong with their Shock and Awe statement. They must have been refering to the more harmless activity of bombing through villages on a trike.
The valley was supposed to lead me all the way to Yangshan. No such luck. I'd already hit the 100km mark and was fading like a delicate flower in the sun. '16km to Yangshan' said a sign dangling above my head (like an axe), and of course it was all up hill, Turned out it was 22km and not the 16km promised. Even the signs don't know. Going up this last bit was killing me and I didn't want to get stuck in the mountains at night. Especially at 7pm when the bandits come out. Well I was lucky this time. They must have been watching TV or had simply over slept, because by 8pm it was just me, the frogs, the stars and the fire flies all glowing in the dark. Actually the frogs weren't glowing. It was slightly unnerving as I was continually lit up by oncoming trucks and the flash from the odd camera coming from the window of a 4x4. At one point I was seriously thinking of just rolling into a hedge and going to sleep.
I hit the slope down, and it was steep and fast. My dynamo front light was working a treat, but it was the only thing I could see and was starting to make me hallucinate. 5km flew by like the wind and I popped out, flag flying and lights flashing like a space ship into the hectic streets of Yangshan. I cruised the busy roads looking for a cheap hotel, checked in, got some kids to help me up with the trike, just as my body started to shake visibly. Cyclists call it the BONK, but I say I was just knackered. I was then waved over to a street table, had hotpot, some water and a bottle of beer.
122.59km, not bad for a skinny Devon boy.
I'm not going anywhere tomorrow. No mountains, no nothing.
23 apr '06Going Potty
Yangshan
Slept, slept some more, ate food, ate some more food.
Breakfast.
Did nothing special except eat pot after pot of hotpot. Delicious, fresh and cheap.
Sunday card games
A quick crack of thunder, a sudden down pour and the sky became clear as glass. Glass with the odd bit of of fluff on it. I was then able to see exactly where I was.
I'm in a city nestled in the mountains. The only way out is up and over more mountains that stretch on forever. What the hell am I doing out here. I know I'm known for being very random, but this is ridiculous.
The mountains in this area are like grains of sand on a tiny table compared to the Himalayas. Good training I guess.
A short poem for you, written in the early stages of madness.
I AM AN ALIEN
Imagine walking down the street and everyone looks at you. You walk into town, people nudge each other, they call to their friends to come out and take a good look at you.
I am an alien.
Mummy, mummy, look at him. The family laughs, the family points. They are not being rude or aggressive, just inquisitive. The Chinese whisper that's never as discrete as it’s supposed to be. You don't have to be a genius or understand the language to figure out they are talking about you.
I am an alien.
When I look back, you turn away as if you never looked. I turn away, you look again. I feel eyes all around me. I am not from this world so please stare all you can, for I will be gone soon.
I am an alien.
Can I have a cup of tea please?
24 apr '06Strawberry cheese cake
Yangshan
Still here, leaving in the morning.
Slowly, slowly catch a monkey. I have to be careful as the little bugger bites. 1000km of hills ahead.
The obsession with TV in China is ever present.
25 apr '06
Up up and away
Lianzhou / Lianxian
Google Earth: 24 47 02.43, 112 21 46.14
MapQuest: 24° 47' 02.43" N, 112° 21' 46.14" E
Distance : 68.93km
Feel a bit annoyed with myself as i accidently reset my Km counter. I was really enjoying it go up and up, but was at zero this morning.
View from my window.
I was starting to get cabin fever in Yangshan. Really needed the rest though. No point straining myself too early. If you ever see an add on TV for 'SalonPas', its true, the patches really work. I bought two before I left Hong Kong, one for each leg. You stick them on and then your legs get hot, then you feel fine, then you peel them off, taking your hair with it, then you cycle over a mountain. The advert is aimed at people who sit at desks a lot and get sore shoulders. I'm doing extreme SalonPas.
Anyway, going off track a bit. My mind starts to wander.
Today its been exploring the mountains, and what fantastic mountains they were. The scenery just keeps getting better. It was difficult to get myself out of bed, but I was sick of that room. It stank to be frank. So was glad to go. Yangshan was very good to me though and met some great people.
'Hello' to Summer and Ice. They are two students that took me to a restaurant. I had been search for rice for two days and couldn't find any. They thought I looked like beckham ??? must have been the legs !
My dad asked in one comment about the additional room services you get in hotels. Well to honest I don't know. The kind of hotels I've been staying are lucky to have doors. Let alone getting late night knocks at them.
So where was I ?...... Oh yes...heading straight up, in drizzly rain. It kept fluctuating between toasty hot to clouds and rain. I'm getting into this mountain climbing business. The mountains are full of surprises, all of which have been good so far.
The further I go into them the more peaceful they become. Except of course for the rattling racing trucks that hurtle down them. They give me plenty of space though and are actually some of the friendliest people I meet. My air horn only gets used for saying hello to them, not as a warning to say where I am. We chat all day. In between those moments its just me, Little Wheelie and the hills.
My daily view. What lovely legs.
The people in this area wear hats that have been inspired by the mountains, tall and pointy, and the dialects I hear twist and turn like the roads. I'm well into taking all the back roads now, even though they go over more passes. These are the best. Cutting through the countryside and meandering next to quiet streams, powerful rivers and friendly villages.
The further I go into China the worse the roads seem to be getting though. Unless of course theres been an earthquake recently.
Again I found myself creeping up the mountain side as slow as a five year old child. I know that for a fact, as I had one walking next to me for one kilometre eager for me to go faster. Got to use my cooking stuff for the first time today. Ever so exciting.
To be honest I wasn't that hungry but fancied a break. Cooked up some cheap noodles and got my feet stuck in the muddy clay. Never in my life have I had so much mud stick to me so quickly. Took ages to scrap it all off so I could get my toe clips back in the pedals.
Now, as I have been creeping up the mountains I've been taking a keen interest in my surroundings. Anyone would think that I have a horticultural background, as I may start posting more images of the flora and fauna I see. Here are some lovely leaves. Any idea mum as to what these are?
The small leafed ones are the type that make up the landscape around here. They grow to a majestic size and give the feeling of a Chinese painting. As you look at them on a tree they kind of look hazy. Or maybe I just need glasses.
Once again I was treated to a fine bit of down hill racing. This time with an old man and a gold tooth. The gold tooth won. When I pulled over he was exceptionally interested in my front light of all things. All questions seemed to revolve around it. I cycled off and could hear him shouting and muttering to himself in the distance. He was such a funny bloke.
Cruising through one town, black from the local coal mine, my eyes met with the local hound of hell. It was massive and was salivating as it leapt into action. The only thing that saved me was a couple of trucks passing in its way, giving me enough time to peg it off. The truck drivers thought it was hilarious.
Tried my Dazer again but nothing. Before I thought it wasn't working, maybe because it was in a plastic bag, and restricting its power. I'd tested it in Hong Kong and one poor dog jumped a mile. So this lead me to obviously assume that all dogs in Guangdong province are deaf. I've tested it since that experience on a few unsuspecting mutts and it works a treat. I never have had much luck with electronics, as anyone will tell you.
......as I rode on, shouting and screaming started from a 3 storey building to my left. It grew louder and louder as more and more children filed out to see the strange string powered machine. The teachers carried long banners that they extended out across the road, shielding the children on either side in a crimson runway to the other side. I thought this a most elegant way to keep children safe. Much more stylish than a lolly pop lady.
Industrial snails
I rolled into Lianzhou at about 5pm just as it started to rain. Checked into the first hotel and negotiated a drunken man desperate to try my bike. After a shower I strolled the streets and discovered that Lianzhou is motorbike central. The main street was full of dealers selling Chinese bikes.
Futong,Zhujiang,ZhongYu,Jingliang,Yuehui,Lingben,Nanya,Kinlon,Sanlg,Sanya,Hymto,Huoniao (I know the meaning for that one - firebird),Haotian,Kynymn,Fekon,Dayun,JINHONG
Plus the odd Suzuki and Honda dealer, but most of them were home grown. There must have been more as I only had the idea to start counting near the end of the street.
Tomorrow I head up into the Wuling mountains into Hunan Province. One down, thirty one to go !
Read more about Lainzhou if you fancy it.
http://www.lztour.com/today/today_gk_lz01_e.htm
Speak to you soon from Hunan.
26 apr '06
Whats in the basket
Lanshan, Hunan Province
Google Earth: 25 22 15.10, 112 10 39.81
MapQuest: 25° 22' 15.10" N, 112° 10' 39.81" E
Distance : Forgot to look at the reading before I came to the Internet Cafe (Wang ba), but was about 83km
Man with a back to front helmet. Also, we can now add JINHONG to the motorbike list.
Had a wander down the high street in my little short shorts and little
top this morning, whilst looking for breakfast at about 7.30. Not the most attractive sight I must admit but I don't care anymore. They were my riding clothes and I was going riding. People stare anyway so you might as well do what you want, wearing what you want. Everyone else does.
So off I pedalled in search of Lanshan, aka Blue Mountain. People keep telling me that these places all sound the same. They could be right, they look quite similar too. Shan, means mountain, and as there are lots of them in this region the word SHAN appears quite often. As for the blue bit I don't know. Could have been a shimmering blue lake that I missed, or blue spring flowers that have long since wilted or even a blue sweet wrapper dumped by the side of the road. I'm not to bothered by it anyway.
What I was bothered by was that my journey was pretty much 70km
straight up hill and this hill was more relentless than the largest
one in Guangdong. I had to go up it to get to Hunan. No choice, that's just the way it is. I've drawn a line on the map and I'm having to get over whats in its path.
I've got a sneaky suspicion that China may actually be one giant
mountain that has no end, and that my route goes over all the steepest bits. But sod it. Whats a few hills between friends. Bang it out and on I go.
The first part was reasonably gentle. I watched farmers bolstering
their rice paddy defences as the sky's opened up and the rain started to fill the gully's, rivers and irrigation channels. Its remarkable the systems that have been created. There must be a special understanding between everyone as to how the water will get to their bit and not miss their neighbours. But, as I was bombing along I didn't get to find out. Met a nice lady who told me to stop eating my biscuit and get cycling as its really far to Lanshan. You could tell she knew what she was talking about. There was none of that willy nilly finger pointing in any old direction or completely made up distances. It was simple and I was running out of time before I'd even started.
We only had time for a quick deal. I bought her straw hat for 6 RMB and then off I went.
As I was slowly going up hill I saw a kid squatting by the road side
almost completely hidden by an umbrella. Next to the hovering umbrella was a small basket. I rolled closer and closer until I was virtually on top of it. Then out popped a chicken and scared the ***** out of me. Chicken in a basket !
God knows how it was hidden in there. The basket I am sure was far too small for a chicken. That's what surprised me so much. I jumped, the kid looked round and saw me and jumped. The chicken had already jumped and legged it into the yard, passing the family running out to see the strange fella on a tricycle.
The scenery was starting to change. Not much, just subtle differences. The trees, the fields, the shape of the mountains, and more noticeably how many mountains.
Dragon flies were in abundance, but many of them lay dead by the road side like crashed fighter planes from world war two. I stopped for a biscuit break and the police pulled over. One was adamant that I go with him for lunch. He was so pushy it was crazy. I said no thanks. I must go up this hill. He kept trying then I just said goodbye. The others understood what I was doing but he wouldn't take no for an answer, so I just didn't bother in the end. They left. I packed up my biscuit and pushed on. Incidentally, the biscuit I was eating must have been a magical biscuit, because no matter how hard I tried, I couldn't photograph it. Similar to the mysterious fire place in Dartmoor, England, that refuses to have its picture taken. These biscuits also taste of garlic, sugar and concrete dust. Stange but tasty.
I digress once again.....
Up I went like lightning in slow motion and found myself going through an area that made me as miserable as hell. It wasn't that the road kept going up but just that it was really weird. I can't explain it exactly. Everywhere in the world, in every country, there are weird villages and weird people. Well I found one on the edge of Guangdong Province. I slipped into paranoia about being robbed, all the people just stared blankly at me and the kids only smiled after I'd gone 300m up the road. They then chased me but were so scared and jumpy. I was starting to think that maybe this is what I had to look forward to in Hunan. Up, up I went...depressed and lacking the will to go any further. Whats the point, its just a bloody road I was thinking, and generally being totally negative. Then I was out of that area and as right as rain. Must have just been a negative place. The mountain road still went up but now I was singing away.
At about 4.30pm I was thinking that maybe Hunan was in the clouds as the top was totally shrouded. Finally I reached the top, took a photo of the sign but didn't care too much. I just wanted the down hill hit. I had to go through a 400m tunnel and then it was to be all down from there on. A beetle had hitched a ride on my mud guard in Guangdong and I was hoping it would cross the border with me. I grew quite found of it until it flew off and went under a truck, just before Hunan. The little cheeky blighter was alright though.
I popped my racing gloves on, checked my brakes, my mirrors and
charged up my air horn. ......yesssssssssssssssssssss... Nothing like it. You forget you've been a total slave for most of the day and a big grin spreads across your face. Coach loads of people came past, gawking at me whilst I was in Formula one mode.
I feel bigger than that when I'm actually in the seat. Don't worry. But believe it or not, they see me a mile off.
uuuuugg. Up hill again, then down, down, down... The bamboo forests changed into pines and birches and waterfalls jetted out from the mountain side. The first person I saw was a beautiful little girl who's face lit up like a light when she saw me on the trike. It was infectious. Kids never let you down. They are always so fresh and full of life. Well they are until the adults brainwash them, tarnishing their minds with their own fears and wishes until they are exact replicas. Here though, everyone was a little smiler.
Into the town I sped, confusing the locals and all of the traffic. I got picked up by the police after 5 minutes who then escorted me to a nice cheap hotel.
Ancient hotel lamp still with its price tag still on.
Met the local Kungfu nutter. The conversation goes something like this.
me: hello.
him: blank face
me: do you know where the nearest internet cafe is?
him: He looks me up and down, sizing me up
me: I size him up and don't like what I see.
him: he keeps looking at me from head to toe
me: Do you know, or don't you? But more polite than that
him: A willy nilly hand movement meaning he doesn't know really.
me: Thanks. I think I will go now
him: You know gongfu? He clentches his fist.
me: blank
him: You know gongfu? he clenches his fist again and thrusts upwards. His fist is huge !
me: shit ! got a nutter on my hands. No I don't.
him: He walks with a swagger reminiscent of a bruce lee film.
me: I walk away in the other direction.
He was totally solid, like a rock on the ground. Only with legs and arms. Everyone else was gentle as can be. I think he was just showing off. Staking his claim as the hard man of Lanshan , marking his territory, spraying his scent. What ever you call it, I have no qualms with you mister. You get my vote.
Plenty of rice to be found in Lanshan. No Cantonese anymore. Getting to grips with the language should be easier now.
My route from here on in gets very random indeed. See you where ever that may be.
27 apr '06
Old bags and stamps
Lanshan, Hunan Province
Distance: Up the road and back a few times
Haven't got a window this time. Lovely hotel room though. Its got clean sheets and everything.
The bed was so good that I didn't wake up. Well I did but I ignored it and carried on sleeping. My right knee was still a bit sore so thought it best to rest it for a day. I know that I can't keep having these days off but my body just needs it. So I give it what it wants.
It also needed a damn good feed this morning. Which is what it had.
Not a bad spread for 2 RMB. For those of you that aren't used to the Chinese currency. RMB stands for 'Renminbi', the Chinese Yuan. Anyway, this meal works out to be about 14p or USD 0.24. Now that I've got all the technical stuff out of the way, I'll tell you what it was like. The Jiaozi are the mini pasty type things on the right. Basically little pockets of meat or vegetable. Delicious. The Baozi in the middle are normally steam buns with meat in the middle. Great. Totally addictive. The noodles, well you know about noodles, but these ones tasted something similar to a farm yard shed. Not a terrible shed, the type you wouldn't go in, but a shed all the same. The tea is served to wash away any grease that's in your mouth. A perfect partner to any meal.
China's pretty good when it come to value for money. Some times you get a lot. Other times you just don't get very much at all.
I also had an ulterior motive for staying in Lanshan for the day. I needed to post a parcel. I knew this would be a Pavlova so I went well prepared. It was pissing down with rain and I had to traipse all over the place. I ended up meeting the local postman and was instructed to follow.
We ended up in the main Lanshan depot. It reminded me of a friendly place of work in the 1920's.
One man was stamping the letters with a massive bang (no one seemed to care, even though this must have been happening non stop for years), someone else was doing a mysterious job, hidden away behind a shelf. I felt privileged to see the inner workings of the Chinese postal service.
Its very hard to get a natural picture of Chinese people, because the moment you pull out a camera they either turn away, run away, stand like toy soldiers or put their fingers up in a V sign. You have to be quick. If you take a shot when they are not ready they are really disappointed and you have to do it again. That way they get to stand in a perfect line, backs straight and seem as neutral as possible. Generally in China, photography is not an art form. It is merely a way to document things in a proper fashion, showing landmarks and special events.
As I was strolling around town I spotted little red riding hood in the distance. Just to let you know she is alive and well.
You will notice that the man on the motorbike has also seen her. She must be an international icon.
I've been trying out the local biscuit / cakes. The ones I bought are not that nice really but OK all the same. From an animalistic 'get up the hill' point of view they are the perfect source of food. Stuff them in your gob. Keep fueling the engines. Lumps of coal would just never do. However, if Dan Mawby and Mike are reading this...... there is plenty of coal up here to fuel a northerner should you ever fancy a visit.
Using the internet is becoming increasingly difficult. Getting photos up is now getting harder than ever. All the internet cafes block you down loading and uploading. That basically means you have to faff around for ages trying to explain what your trying to do. Words in chinese for download, can I access the C drive, can I copy these files, download a program, compress them and copy them to my FTP server is not that easy. Its also dangerous too as the wiring at the back of the computer is sometimes a bit dodgy.
Another bit of random info for you. Most computers in Lanshan are as light as a feather. I've been told that its because they don't have hard drives... sounds dubious to me. I think they are simply boxes with flashing lights.
People are completely addicted it seems to video games and online chatting. At night its difficult to get in there.
There is 63 million people living in Hunan. Tomorrows another day of exploration, pushing deep into the interior and hopefully meeting a few more friendly faces.
28 apr '06
Food galore
Ningyuan
Distance: 47.06km
I've been an idiot. Luckily I brought the instructions for the bike computer. I've been looking at the wrong display. I've now traveled 452.24km. That's brought me all way to Ningyuan, in Hunan.
Odo, means your total distance, I'd reset another sub counter, but my Odo was still there, I just didn't know what it was. I wasn't going to tell you but I thought it was so dumb I'd let you have a laugh. You can all stop panicking now. My Odo is OK. By the end of the journey I might actually know what I'm doing. There is all sorts of small wonders in the device that are starting to make more sense. Better late than never. At the end of the day I've cycled it, I just didn't know the details. However my legs already knew it was a long way.
I am estimating it will be another 3 weeks before I arrive in Chongqing. That's 21 days of mountains. I will then head east towards Wuhan and drop down into Fujian Province.
Now.... I've been talking and semi complaining about locals giving me willy nilly directions, when actually its me doing a willy nilly route. No wander they have been confused. In the route section to this website it says that I will be going roughly anti clockwise. Well I think the word 'roughly' should be made bold, underlined or highlighted in some other way. I was informed before I left HK that it's all mountains and would be really tough, even for seasoned cyclist travelling light. Shit ! , that's me out then. I was also told that the roads are crap and doing it on a tricycle would be nightmarishly slow. What they didn't take into account is that I'm not in any major rush and I like watching slow moving wildlife. Oh yeah... Its also monsoon season, so it will be 3 weeks in the rain...brilliant. I reckon if I play my cards right i can catch the worst weather in every province. I'll be lucky to get to Heilongjiang province before it turns to ice at this rate. Is being pulled by husky dogs cheating?.
Oops.. Was chatting away too much and forget to tell you about today. I didn't travel very far, as the next stopping point is about 100km away. I'm saving that for tomorrow. So I came to Ningyuan.
The mountains on the way looked like dollops of cream covered in a fresh minty, but slightly hairy sauce. With the occasional chocolate chip thrown in for good measure.
Luckily today they have kept their distance and treated me to a relatively flat, effortless day through the paddy fields.
Hunan is the rice production power house of china, so you'd expect loads of flat areas. I'm heading into the western Hunan where I doubt much rice grows. Maybe they have worked out a way of farming on vertical slopes. Normally in China every possible inch of land has its purpose. Untouched nature is only found in nature reserves. If its not in there and it's been left alone, it must be economically worthless. Hunan's rice fields look ancient. The peasants working the fields use traditional tools of the trade. An ox or Water Buffalo pulling a wooden plough. The whole landscape has been transformed into gentle terraces, sculpted with time and by the weather. The environment here, like most of China has been dominated for centuries and its a marvel to the eye. But not always I hasten to add. The people of Hunan are very beautiful, with bright eyes and big smiles. There are many different minority groups in Hunan, but the ones I have seen so far look similar to the people from Laos or Nepal. Olive smooth skin and happy lines on their faces.
A group of children saw me coming up the road. Most of them just quietly giggled but one young boy made a dash across the road and stuck his tongue out through the gaps of his semi toothless grin. It was one of those moments where even a photograph would have been worthless. We both chuckled as I floated by. .
I was greeted at Ningyuan by a giant sculpture of Confucius. The whole place in general didn't look too inviting. A Chinese city can sometimes make you feel very depressed. I guess any city can. A modern Chinese city normally has an old section that is totally alive. The new section devoid of anything interesting in terms of old architecture. Ningyuan held many suprises. I arrived and cycled up and down the various streets trying to find a room. All that I saw sent me into a state of misery, but after taking a stroll around, I happened upon the old block. It wasn't like something out of an old historical Chinese movie or anything, it was just alive. I felt better and better as I walked. Life was on the street, as it always has been. Old people squatting down, laughing and joking as the kids came out from school. Vegetables and meat for sale on small carts that disappear when it gets quiet. Or maybe it gets quiet when the carts disappear.
The drive for modernization is wiping out these areas, replacing them with white tiled buildings and blue tinted glass, clothing shops that bang out loud music, speakers on repeat and football style waste bins. This wouldn't be so bad if it had central planning but its all over the shop. The old areas have the atmosphere. I'm not sure the locals would agree though, they may just see the old areas as just old and shabby, but their faces seem to tell a different story.
For the first time since I began this trip I feel like I'm now in the thick of it.
I saw a guy today wearing a matted straw back cover. The kind that has been worn for hundreds of years whilst working in the fields. I saw the same type for sale on the streets of Ningyuan.
All Chinese cities are really hectic. They are buzzing with life. Sometimes this is a complete overload and you have to just go back to your room. A sanctuary of peace in comparison.
The old Chinese ways of working with nature seem to have dissolved though. This is no great discovery on my part. This has been happening for decades. Handicrafts still exist but mass production is more favorable. Plastic toys, plastic bowls, plastic this and plastic that are the number one thing on show.
Cheap and disposable. Pride in craftsmanship and pride in architecture have become a thing of the past. Its sad to see it go. Old Chinese aritecture is superb. cheap materials and fast construction mean that modern building now look 20 years old after only one year.
I'm really looking forward to going out on to the streets tonight to have dinner. If there is a lot of life by day you can be sure there will be some good food vendors by night. Now that i have found the old section, I'm all set.
29 apr '06
Hunan, Hunan, Hunan
Ningyuan to Guiyang
Google Earth: 25 44 16.10, 112 42 51.88
MapQuest: 25° 44' 16.10" N, 112° 42' 51.88" E
Distance: 112.76km
Morning entry.
Woke this morning and lay in bed trying to figure out what I was going to do. From outside my window a lot of noise was making its was to my ear drum. On further inspection I saw about 20 mopeds with riders wearing sashes across their chests. I quickly got dressed and followed the adhoc procession down the street.
Something about something. I'll never know.
I then found myself at the entrance to the wet market. I'd seen it yesterday winding its way along the riverside and thought it looked good, so in I nipped. Sensory overload is all I can say. For Vegetarians and the faint hearted please turn away now. Vendors selling everything the area has to offer.
Red peppers, green peppers, crushed peppers, all sorts of vegetables and of course all sorts of meat.
The meat in particular is a subject not for the squeamish. In china everything is fresh from the source. I.e killed in front of you. It was a brutal experience I have to say but an eye opener all the same. I've been to a few wet markets in China but nothing like this one.
It was in your face. No matter where I turned some Bird was getting boiled, plucked, chopped, pulled out of basket, gutted, or given a good once over before any of the above.
Birds carried off by their legs, craning their necks trying to see where they are going. Ducks, geese, chickens, pigs, cows, frogs, toads, dogs and cats were all likely candidates. Although the pigs and cows were already items in various states of disrepair. I won't go into too much detail with what I saw, or though you no doubt get a pretty good idea. Although the whole thing is brutal it is efficient and quick. What I like about the Chinese way is that nothing is wasted. Everything is edible and it seems most parts are enjoyed. In the west it goes to make cat and dog food or of course the famous British sausage. Chinese love food, and I highly respect the way that nothing is wasted. There is no plastic packaging, no little white tray covered in cling film, no frozen produce, no processed chicken nuggets, devoid of any goodness. Its just what it is. The west has lost that, preferring only to see the end product and cares little about where it comes from. Choosing your chicken disappeared decades ago. Why is that ?
The market acted as a short cut to my already favourite baozi vendor. A friendly couple who told me 'Welcome to China' were there once again to great me.
I'll take three big ones this morning please. Xie xie ! (meaning - thankyou. .. pronounced something similar to 'share share' but said quickly).
Evening entry
I've had to do a U-turn. I'm no longer heading West but now East, back down the same road as yesterday, then on some more. So if you are wondering what the first part was like, just re read the previous days entry, but backwards. Take away the rain and cold air, add some sunshine and clear skies and you have it. I had to come to Guiyang today as part of an emergency damage limitation plan. Can you believe it. I have to cycle 450km to Changsha to find a cash point. That's the same as cycle from Penzance to London just to get a few quid. I couldn't get any funds from anywhere else in Ningyuan, so I have to do it. This is got to hold some kind of record.
There's a careful balance between carrying too much money and not enough. I just haven't found it yet. I always learn the hard way.
I'm glad I ran out of money, if I hadn't I would never of seen what I saw today.
What a ride, simply glorious. I never use that word but today it seems perfectly fitting. The landscape was a mixture of gentle hills, paddy fields and picture post card houses in neat villages. All set to the rhythm of rice production.
The dragonflies in this area were very much alive. Flying in front until you got too close, then making a quick right angled exit like a UFO shooting off to space. Gone in a blink of the eye.
I'd rank the landscape as some of the most beautiful I've ever seen.
Intricate rock formations were dotted across the landscape, forming beautiful rock gardens where people grew their vegetable. The riding was not too strenuous, the weather just perfect and the people were really friendly.
I had a simple conversation with a small child whilst passing through a small village on a hill.
Child: American
Me: English
Child: Chinese
and then we parted, both smiling, happy that we'd made friends.
Once again night was slowly creeping in. I was thinking about trying to camp but there were people dotted everywhere and it seemed impossible to find a camping spot unseen. I was also having the same dilemma as when I need to go for a pee. Its like trying to go to the toilet in someones garden without getting caught. All of the landscape is in use and people blend in with their surroundings, with an ability appear from nowhere.
The entrance to Guiyang is on a long, long hill. I entered the city from both sides, somehow missing it on the way through. With people shouting and yelling at me, practicing their English or just saying hello, I made my way along the high street. I met a young man on a moped who escorted me to a cheep hotel. On the way a another guyed showed up waving my hat. I'd dropped whilst passing through and he'd chased after me. I love that hat. Its a Tilley hat. If had to choose only one item to travel in, even if it meant I was naked, I'd choose my Tilley. Little Wheelie, me and my Tilley are inseparable. I love them both dearly and its only been a two week long relationship I had to find a cheap hotel for about 15 RMB or one pound. You don't get much for that except that the people who run them are friendly families.
I dumped all my stuff, walked like a puppet into town, found a cash point, but it didn't work. Rejected ! Bloody typical. However food does taste fantastic after 112 kilometres.
I was doing extreme Salon Pas, now I'm doing extreme Willy Nilly. 3 Baozi and a handful of biscuits gets you quite far indeed.
On to Changsha it is then. I'm looking forward to it.
Distance: Zero
View from my elcheapo hotel.
Result.
My HSBC card dosen't work in the Bank of China machine in Guiyang. I spent the most of this morning in the bank trying to find out why the card doesn't work and if it would work if I even got to Changsha. Anyway I'm going to skip Changsha, Mao Zedong's birth place and all the other trappings now. Heading north once again, on a different route but still north. Changning is the destination, a long cycle ride of about 130km, with no stopping points so need to start early.
Goodnight,
or its probably Good morning for you.
Enjoy your day..
Rob Luxton’s adventure on a three wheeled recumbent tricycle - April | May | June | July
Visit Rob's website here for more photos and additional information:
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