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Copyright © Linda Fraikin, 2007
Visit Linda's website here for more photos and additional information:
http://www.bangkok-beijingbybike.org
Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. Albert Einstein May | June | July | August | September | October
Bangkok to Beijing by Bike - September
Dinner at the police station
September 1, 2006 on 23:54
Late in the afternoon I realised that I would not make it anywhere near Dandong, today. Since there were no more villages marked on the map, I decided to stop and stay where ever I could find a group of houses; Yiquan.
When I arrived in Yiquan, Luan Wei greeted me enthusiastically. Welcome, how can I help? I always feel lucky when I bump into someone who speaks better English than I speak Putonghua. When I explained the situation, he excitedly shrieks: Let’s go!
He showed me a liu guan and when I asked about a shower, he guided me to a bath house. I secure the room for 10 Yuan and agreed to pay 5 Yuan for a hot shower. After being refreshed, we went shopping. When I inquired about the price of some fruit; apple/pear or pear/apple (not sure, looks like an apple, tastes more like a pear) and some bananas, the woman indicated: 5 Yuan, Luan Wei, said: it can not be more than 2 Yuan, so 2 Yuan it was.
After all this I decided to roam around the village a little and make some pictures, now that there was still enough light, and good light it was. I made some nice pictures of the sunset, behind the police station as it turned out…
Oops… trouble?! A police officer beconed me to come over. He only speaks Chinese and I do not. He points to the police station and asks me to follow (I guess). As soon as I enter the gates a woman is sent out. To get the local English teacher, as it turns out. They ask me all kind of questions, the basic ones in Chinese, that I can answer in Chinese. But they do not ask for my papers. It was about time for another encounter, it has been a while.
When the English teacher arrives, she asks me: what is the problem? Problem? I am not sure, the police asked me to come here. A police man mimes that I was taking pictures of the police station. Err… well, it was actually the sunset, behind the station…
Where is your bike? At the liu guan. Where do you go? I explain the situation and tell her that I will be staying here for the night and will leave for Dandong early tomorrow morning. Do you need a place to stay? No, that has been taken care of already. What is the problem? I do not know… I do not think there is a problem… OK, let’s eat!
Huh, OK! And I had a great meal at the police station, the woman who was sent out to get the teacher was the cook (amongst other things) and had made a great meal. There I was, first a little hesitant, enjoying my meal, surrounded by uniforms…
And there was… a Great Wall
September 2, 2006 on 23:16
Having visited the Great Wall of China at Sima Tai, near Beijing, for the first time last year December, today I have visited this impressive piece of construction for the second time.
This time at the most eastern point at the border with the DPRK (North Korea). This part is named: Hushan (Tiger Mountain) Great Wall and is located about 25km north-east of Dandong, only a 45 minute busride away.
Last year it was snowing whilst I climbed the wall, today it was warm and slightly overcasted. This particular part of the wall has been fully restored and is visted by few (foreign) tourists (probably the best thing about it all). How have I come to dislike tourist so much (being one myself…).
Time to think/sleep/read
September 8, 2006 on 3:44
Excitement on the train to Shenzhen.
Due to the fact that I will have to leave the country for a new visa, I will embark on a massive train trip. I could not secure any affordable flights to Hong Kong, South Korea is too expensive (and so is Japan), the DPRK (North Korea) is not an option, so the train to Hong Kong it will be. For 36hrs, from Shenyang - Shenzhen. Leaving September 9th, arriving in Shenzhen September 11th. From Shenzhen the boat/train/bus to Hong Kong. Time to catch up on sleep and do some serious reading.
Honkers? Hongkers?
September 11, 2006 on 2:08
… well, that is how Tim called it - and he should know - because he is Australian. How to write it though? Honkers? Hongkers? I assume the first version (knowing Tim a little, that is. Anyway it took me 36+ hours (train) to get there and 3 and a half hours (plane) to return (to where I came from). Inbetween I did manage to spent 2 days in HK.
Two great days, thanks to my host Stephen, a “couch provider”. I set off straight for business when I arrived; the Chinese Embassy. Easily reached & found, partially due to the underground/tube/MTR. How can I help? Visa? No problem, how long for? Pick up today or tomorrow? Very fast and effective + much easier to arrange than in Hanoi where I had to throw my female charms into the battle.
So that done, I arranged a flight ticket back (believe it or not, if I would have had NO time restrictions, I would have gone back by train again).
View from inside the Conference & Exhibition Centre II
Chinese doughnuts & chicken nuggets
September 15, 2006 on 2:34
Food, or better snacks, one of my favourite subjects. Today I tried some Chinese dougnuts, well, they look exactly like dougnuts; greasy flattened balls with a soft filling. I am still not sure what is inside, but it is brown and I have found it in many other pastries.
Someone told me that it is chestnut paste. This seems unlikely to me since a. the doughnuts are dirt cheap and b. I have not seen a single chestnut tree yet. But who knows… I guess it does not really matter what it is as long as it tastes good. I tried to convince myself of this theory as well when someone offered me (yet again) a chicken feet… to no avail. Chicken!!!
Speaking of chee (ro) [chicken (meat)], the have the best deep-fried, breaded chicken strips over here. Finished off with sesame and cumin seeds (yes Mark, cumin not commin’) and either a sweet or spicy sauce, athough I have had portions with e-v-e-r-y-t-h-i-n-g on it! Yummy.
The police is your best friend
September 19, 2006 on 3:00
At least that is what they say (or said) in the Netherlands. Heishan. I have gone unnoticed (by the police) for a while, so it was about time… When I had just settled in at the liu guan, there was a knock on the door, Zhuan Xi (who had helped me find this liu guan) entered and had brought a friend (or that is what I assumed) with sneakers, blue jeans and a sports jacket. “Police”, he said, and I (jokingly) asked for his badge.
He did not understand, so I pointed at him and his head, trying to indicate a lack of uniform. He pointed outside… there was a brand spanking new police car… I showed him my passport, which he scrutinised and left.
About an hour later Zhuang Xi was back; You have to come to the police station. Err… now this was new. Zhuan Xi, the manageress of the liu guan and myself got into a tuk-tuk (not sure how they call the equivalent in China) and made our way to the police station.
At the police station we were led into the office of a bored policeman. He was not at all impressed. Without even looking at me (Zhuang Xi, the manageress) or my passport, he took five forms from his colleague and signed them all. Done and dusted?
Another policeman was now in charge. The matter was apperantly not solved but the big(ger) boss had better things to do. Zhuang Xi and the manageress tried their best but the middle aged policeman, now in charge, looked sincerely worried.
Was this another: We really want you to stay in a expensive hotel-scheme? I showed him my businesscard, with both Mandarin and English text, and tried to explain that I had been cycling in China for a while and never had a problem before, and I would only be staying in town for one night.
I guess someone must have said something right, because we were allowed to leave, without further delay, advice or payments. Everybody was relieved. I only wished I could have understood. I finally had time to take a shower and went out again to get dinner. After dinner I made my way to the wung ba.
At about 21.30, when I was happily chatting away with Eric, the big worried middle aged police man came in. He folded his hands and put his head to them. Then his young blue jeans colleague came in and flipped his badge: “Police!” (maybe he did understand after all). Bedtime and police escorte was my conclusion… I am not sure if Eric believed it all, I am not sure if I would if I would not have been there myself…
Bag of shit
September 19, 2006 on 3:00
I woke up in cold sweat and panic. Toilet? I flicked on the light but the bulb blew. What to do? Run through the hall down the stairs in the dark, risking to break my neck? Is there an alternative?
Next to the TV was a plastic garbage bin with a neat plastic bag in it… that will do… (and it did). About an hour or so later I woke up again and decided to go for the run since it started to get light outside (+ the bin was full) and I could actually see the stairs.
Hunched over the chinese hole I realised that one point of exit was not sufficient and I grabbed the plastic bowl next to me (the one used to wash your face and hands). Oops, I did it again, but, without any spills or stains. What a relief.
The next morning I showed the manageres my phrasebook and pointed at “I am sick” and explained that we had to expose of a stinking bag asap (and she did at once). After that I went to the shop on the otherside of the road and bought some toilet paper and water. I explained that I would return to bed and only, sleep & drink (water).
After a while Zhuan Xi, came by (he spoke more English than any of the others): Everything OK? Not really, but no worries, nothing a little rest cannot fix. Minutes later he returned with two little bags of milk (they have many different milks and yoghurts in little plastic bags). Ta! That I did not think of that. Maybe it would have been better if he did not, the milk came out again a little later… accompanied by little green bits and tears, ouch.
My peace & quiet were difficult to get. The manageres had come up to my room and felt felt my fore head, she was not happy. Zhuang Xi showed up again to communicate in basic English, “Please go to the hospital”, “Please go see a doctor”, “Please get a drip”. And then the now really worried police man showed up and a doctor, a nurse and random people. Arghhhhhhhhhhh. I know they all mean very, very well, but this is about the last I need.
When the doctor (or a potentially random man with a thermometer and a stethoscope), offered me his thermometer, I was at a loss. Errr…. na lee? [where?] In the Netherlands: behind, Thailand: mouth, China? Before I could come up with an answer the manageres had stuck it under my armpit. No fever: good! Bloodpressure: 80/40. Huh? Something MUST be wrong!
NO, No drip! No medicine! At least not without someone being able to explain to me in plain English how and what!!!
Glad to see the back of me
September 19, 2006 on 3:01
After a good nights rest, I felt much better. The manageres came up to check on me an was happy to see some colour on my fcheeks and decided that the temperature of my forehead was finally normal. Followed by a real sigh of relieve!!!
I got dressed and went out to get some breakfast. After that I tried to settle the bill, assuming there was one, but without any luck. I do not know if there were any bills for doctors, nurses, etc. and if there were who paid them, but it was not me, and they did not let me either.
I thanked the manageress (and her husband) and handed her my card and a photo, hoping that maybe someone caould use them to find my website and read my words of thanks!!! When I turned the corner, I raced out of this city… it was all a bit too much.
The Great Wall: to be continued
September 21, 2006 on 2:56
Another visit to another part of The Great Wall: the Shanhaiguan Pass. located in Shanhaiguan. After visiting the far most eastern part of The Great Wall earlier this month, yesterday I visited the part where The Great Wall touches the sea.
This was previously claimed to be the far most eastern part (Where the Great Wall Starts, The First Pass under the Heaven), until the discovery of the Hushan (Tiger Mountain) Great Wall located near Dandong. Today I visited Jiao Shan, a very steep section, where The Great Wall mounts its first (?) high peak. Except for the foundations and the last part (which was not accessible) the wall was as good as new.
Luckily they have used different coloured stones, so one can still see the original structure (mainly the foundations). I really like to prefer to see the weathered remains, having stood (or not) the test of time. To my opinion the original remainders are better left alone. It is OK to build a full copy somewhere else or, use high tech equipment to create a virtual experience, but please leave things as they are. They will never be what they were.
I still have my question marks concerning the way the Chinese protect their heritage. The temple near to the Great Wall was at the very moment I visited in the process of being restored= painted, by some local ladies covered in scarves and hats (yes, to me this is criminal!!!). The ladies were hapily sanding (!!!) and painting away. These do not seem like regular conservation techniques to me… but what do I know…
As it stands now, I would not be surprised if the full length off The Great Wall will soon be restored, say within the next 5-10 years, but ideally before the Olympic Games in 2008.
Do not get me wrong, The Great Wall is/was absolutely amazing and impressive, but I prefer to see the remainders that have stood the test of time and am quite able to imagine, how it used to be.
Although I have to say that in my imagination, everything has always proven to be much bigger, more impressive etc. (Mount Olympus, the Borobudur, etc.). I consider it a real shame that, time and time again, my imagination is beaten by reality…
World Car Free Day
September 22, 2006 on 5:23
This annual global event is all about leaving the car at home and learning the joys of living without your car. Get on your bike!!!
…and I am not even on the road to enjoy it…
Why does time fly, when you are having fun?
September 28, 2006 on 23:22
Why does time fly, when you are having fun? I may have watched a few too many car ads on CCTV… I have not found a satisfying answer to this profound question (yet), but more importantly some personal questions have been left unaswered as well.
Fact of the matter is that I am having mixed emotions about both, the trip and life after… On the one hand I am very excited about reaching Beijing and having been able to round of my bike adventure with GREAT success. On the otherhand I am sad, sad that I have to get back to normal live.
Finding a new place to live, both country & home + a new job. Earning money, instead of spending it (which I have become terribly good at, I dare add). Alternatively I could try and find a sugar daddy, or marry a filthy rich man (with a weak ticky-ticker). Any takers? So I will not be bored, in case you were wondering (well maybe in case of the sugar daddy and hubby). So, where? what? when???
Arrival Beijing: Saturday September 30th
September 28, 2006 on 23:55
Saturday September 30th, I will be arriving in Beijing (so be warned, or on the look-out!).
THE ROUTE: I will be leaving Sanhe in the morning and stop for lunch in Songzhuang. You can either meet me there, from 12.00 - 13.00 or anywhere on route between Songzhuang and Tian’anmen Square, Beijing.
I will be approaching Beijing from the East on the G102. In Beijing it changes/follows Chaoyang Lu, Chaoyangmen Daije, which ‘ends’ up at the north corner of the Palace Museum. From there a left turn will end up next to/on Tian’anmen square: the finish (not sure about the arrival time, but most probably around 14:30/15:00, depending on traffic).
You can text me on +66 (0)9 062 1970 (please note, since this is a pre-paid foreign telephone it cannot be used for regular calls).
For those who enquired on how to recognise me, please check the picture below. I will be wearing those exact clothes, except for the pants, they will be replaced by some long ones.
I hope to see you there! The more, the merrier!
Out of air at Tien’anmen Square
September 30, 2006 on 19:58
Slightly nervous about what was to come on this special day, I woke up early; 6.00. After packing, breakfast and a quick visit to the wung ba, accross the street, I climbed onto my faithful two-wheeler for the last day. The final leg. The end.
Of course on this day some unexpected things had to happen. Firstly I had a flat tyre (I have lost count but it is absolutely a two figure number). Secondly I received a 200 Yuan donation. I was waiting for my Chinese wrap, with egg, lettuce and loads of la [hot], when I got talking to a man , one of the people who had surrounded me. He spoke English and inquired about my trip. I handed him my business card and we talked for a while.
Then he tried to hand me two 100 Yuan notes. I was flabberghasted and told him I could not accept, but he insisted. “Really I do not need it“. He said: “You have to eat and sleep, so take the money”. A sound argument like that I could not counter and I accepted the money somewhat chuffed. He quickly took some pictures and left without leaving his name or contact details. THANK YOU!!!
I was still on schedule (with an hour left to go) but it would be tight. I would not be able to get to Tian’anmen square at 14.30 but 15.00 should be managable. At a few minutes past 15.00, I turned the corner onto Tian’anmen Square. I had forgotten how big it was…
When I was at the square I received a text message: Have you arrived yet? Where are you? I quickly typed a message and sent it… you have not got enough funds to send this message. HELP!!! My luck. Al the messages sent last night had eaten away my funds. What to do next? The public phones were card phones and no one was able to tell me where I could buy a card… what to do?
Lend a phone! Two very nice Beijing-ers lend me their phone and I was able to leave a message for Pat & Mark, the writers of the text message. We managed to meet shortly after and chatted away happily and decided we would take some pictures in front of the Palace/Mao and go for a drink. When I was about to get onto my bike I noticed that… I was out of air at Tian’anmen Square…
For the last time (I hope), I mended my tyre. After Pictures & drinks Pat & Mark invited me to stay at their (beautifully decorated) appartment for the night. An offer I could not and did not refuse. After a very refreshing (western)Â dinner (long live variety) and (proper English) conversation, I climbed into the softest bed since, I do not know how long. Absolutely ready for sweet dreams. Thanks very much Pat & Mark for welcoming me into Beijing and your home!
I DID IT!!! and was absolutely elated, but my poor tyre disagreed and had ended up deflated (not really a surprise after 9367.90km!!!)
I HAVE ARRIVED!!!
September 30, 2006 on 20:03
Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it.
Boldness has genius, power and magic in it.
Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. Albert Einstein May | June | July | August | September | October
Visit Linda's website here for more photos and additional information:
http://www.bangkok-beijingbybike.org
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