China Cycling Travelogues
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Copyright © Linda Fraikin, 2006
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Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. Albert Einstein May | June | July | August | September | October
Bangkok to Beijing by Bike - June
New pictures, check it out!
June 1, 2006 on 3:22
Today is the first dry day, since I have entered China. Hurray!!! My raindances must have finally had an impact. …maybe I have spend too much time on my own and start to write nonsense… I managed to upload some more pictures today. Somehow this has been the biggest challenge during the ride. Either the programme is not available, or there is no CD-drive, or… as today, all programmes are in Chinese. Luckily they did have Photoshop (bless ‘em) and I did remember quite a few shortcuts and positions of commands, so it all worked out in the end. Check it out.
You beauty!!!
Note: when I walked out of the Internet cafe, it was pouring again.
Lonely at the top… and also at the bottom!
June 2, 2006 on 12:34
Nanning > Binyang. Today I left my convenient and bargained down in price, hotel room, in the centre of Nanning and made my way to Binyang. I did not leave too early as everything would be closed. I picked up some sweet buns on my way out and bought a bunch of bananas which were dirt-cheap, 2 Yuan at a market.
The map I had bought in a humongous bookshop in Nanning, 4 stories high made it very easy to navigate my way out of the city and onto the right track. The map is bi-langual, so that is very easy as well. Although, depending on the font used, the characters may look (very) different from the ones used at the road signs. But than, I can always ask (this actually works best).
What was not marked on the map was that the road I was heading for was a high way and did not allow bikes… err… well the only alternative is a road to the right, so here I go. As it turns out, the road is probably the old road to Binyang and is very quiet, hardly any traffic except from th occassional mini-van. It goes up and down and zig-zags across the landscape, the high way always in earshot and/or eyesight, a big pale line, cutting through the landscape, as flat and straight as can be (grrrrrrrrrr).
Anyway, the road is very beautiful and another opportunity to practice my gear switch skills. It passes through many beautiful villages. In one of the villages, the one where they make plates (I think), the locals start to run when I arrive (word must have gotten ahead of me). When I ask for directions, the man laughs and points at the big black clouds behind me… oops. I ride a little further, but within no time it starts to pour down. Help! Shelter?!
A little house with a few motorbikes in front of it is the chosen spot (not only by me, as it turns out, also the owners of the motorbikes). At moments like this the phrase book always comes in handy (gives THEM something to read). Within no time we are having an animated conversation, pointing into the phrase book time after time. When I try to make some pictures, one of the men, shies away (the most photogenic one…). When one of the men inquires if I have a raincoat, I assume that this is a hint, the rain is now not much more than a drizzle, and I put on my pink rain poncho and leave.
After climbing the next hill, it starts raining again and for once I am very happy that I have to pass underneath the high way; shelter! When ready to face the rain again, the rain is gushing down the road, and I did not quite (yet) realise how slippery it has become. Next uphill again and I fall (a 1st). A typical cleat fall; I keeled over to the left. Wetter than before and with a numbing pain in my hand I continue.
After several inquiries for a cheap hotel, I am lucky the 4th time. This one suits my budget best. I am not sure, why, in the previous hotel, which was very nice, affordable and came down with the price almost 50%, the lights and elevator were not working (duh). I make myself comfy and lay down on the bed (and fall asleep). When I wake up it is already dark. I switch on the light… well the switch moved. Only now do I realise that there has been a power cut (for several hours by now).
I take my torch that Sareena gave to me as a going away present. It is very handy, I can wear it round my wrist, head, etc. The town is (semi) dark, very eerie. People have lighted candles, shine headlamps of motorbikes and cars into the shop and some have an alternative source for electricity (can not think of the name of the machine).
It now is clear where the priorities lay. All the mobile phone advertising is lighted and so are several hotel signs. I am not sure if the people are used to it, but life goes on. People have food on tiny little torch lit tables, etc. Soon my tummy is full and I make my way back to the hotel. It has been quite an eventful day… good night!
Just what I needed!
June 4, 2006 on 3:57
Binyang > Liuzhou. My clothes are wet and smell, and so do I, or was it the other way around. It seems that the only way of drying my clothes is actually wearing them… I was contemplating if I should buy a fohn or an iron to dry my clothes. If I remember correctly; a fohn is a hot/tropical wind, in Germany (with capital) and Holland it is also the word for blowdryer. Either fohn would have been welcome at the time…
I was cycling and thinking (yes it is possible) and was not quite aware of my surroundings. What changed? All of a sudden I realised that when it comes to scale, things are very different in China. From a great distance I saw a huge building in front of a mountain. When I got closer, it turned out to be a mine. The building was many storeys high and very wide. Trucks were driving back and forth, carrying big black loads.
When I passed, I decided to make a picture, and when I cycled another 100 metres or so I saw this group of ladies, armed with spades. Just what I needed! It is great to see how a camera, like a small child or a little dog can bridge a gap or brake a (language) barrier. FIrst they were a little shy but within no time the ladies were giggling, pointing and yepping away in mandarin. One of the ladies almost had a (laughing)Â fit, when she realised her hat was all worn out and had many holes… I left with many bai-bai-s, giggles and waves. Just what I needed.
Whit lifted spirits, I coninued. The road was actually very nice, well tended, with trees on both sides. There were some very beautifull passages, especially the onces alongside the river. Next stop was a tomato village where the people were busy packaging tomatoes (in pink paper). Same story from camera shy to (almost) baldly posing…
Judging on the prices, I finally had made it deep into the countryside. At the local market I bought an apple, a pear, six vegetable filled pancakes and two sweet buns for the equivalent of about 20baht (halve a dollar, less than halve an euro). Being typically Dutch, I have to admit that bargains always taste that little extra bit better. Note: the man who sold the fruit, also peeled the apple for me! He used, what looked like a giant razorblade on a stick. It sure worked!
Pictures in Apartment Living Magazine
June 4, 2006 on 20:01
This month in Apartment Living Magazine: a three page article about the BHHB (Bangkok Hash House Bikers). Patricia Weismantel (our Grand Master) wrote this fabulous piece and the pictures (with me in it) are made by Udo Weitz (our Hash Flash) the other pictures are made by me!!! For more info and explanations about the BHHB visit the site!
Are Chinese men romantic?
June 8, 2006 on 19:55
Well, uh, dunno… I was having my dinner at the tent market in Yangzhuo, accompanied by my phrase book. The phrase book is always a good source of fun + I can hardly do without it. The ladies of the food stall were having a real giggle, when I tried to pronounce the words. But they always double checked the written characters in the phrase book.
Then one of the girls, who is selling roses comes up to me, she hands me a red rose and says - pointing at a table - she give you rose. Luckily, for me, she was a he, but the girl kept referring to him as she.
I decided to go up to him and thank him. This meant facing a table full of Chinese men. When I got close to the table, they quickly pulled out a chair, and offered me food and beer. The beer was quickly exchanged by tea and I had just finished my meal, so declined the food.
They were on holiday and from another province. Neither of the men spoke much English and neither had much patience with the phrase book. They flowers girls spoke some English, so they translate as much as they could.
The men seemed to be content with the fact that I had joined in… (decoration?) to be polite, I stayed on a little while. And I received another rose (white).
Next thing, they ask the girl with the guitar to sing a song. The flower girls, who have been translating and hovering around the table, quickly join in. After the song I get a present, some kind of fabric, ball shaped decoration. I keep on thanking (xexe) the men and more songs are sung. Note: whilst I am sipping tea, they are drinking beer.
Somehow the men managed to get the girl who has been playing the guitar, into a drinking contest. They hand her a bottle of beer and to great enthusiasm of everyone, she opens it with a pair of chopsticks. She then quickly gulps down a plastic cup of beer, and another one. Obviously she beat the two guys big time…
New Pictures II. Check it out!
June 8, 2006 on 2:42
I am in there too, hi, hi, hi.
Go Neil, Go!
June 13, 2006 on 2:33
A couple of days ago, I received an email from Neil & Leigh (previously referred to as; The British Couple), whom I met in Ninh Binh at the Bich Dong Pagoda (Vietnam). And, I seems that I may have started a little fire.
Neil was intrigued by my adventure and deep down inside really wanted to do some serious cycling himself. But how? Where to start? What to do?
He mentioned that he cycles to work everyday, but says, that is different. Well, not necessary, as Dave put it so nicely. A big bike trip is like cycling to work everyday, but never going back home.
Neil is now considering to cycle the length of Britain between Lands End and John O’Groats. Go Neil, Go! Good luck! You can do it & will love it (weather permitted).
Thinking of you…
June 13, 2006 on 2:39
Magdalena & Peter (Ming-Ming), everytime I put on my shoes, and many times whilst wearing (they are now very wet and smell terrible… sorry). Eric, keeping it dry up north? Ellen & Chris; thanks for everything, big sista (and brother, if you insists…). Becs, Zurich is very neigh. Sue, are you still in Zurich? Mike & Cindy, when will I see you again? Joy & Poo, everytime (= every day) I put on my knicks. Jamelle & Yusef, China 2008? Marit, Afrika? Go Girl! Barbara, Tim & Nina, is three a crowd? Karin, any bells ringing in the near future? Sareena, your light has been a life saver. Petra, Phd? Rhonda D, yours respectfully. Karen & Dalton, future internet posters? Udo, Barbara & Zoe. Steve C, do not ever, ever, give up photography! Craig, speaking of photography. Zoe, hope you still enjoy the novices… Zoe, you still stay in Beijing occassionally? Szilard. Francisco. Helen, how is the degree going? Diana, when a eurovision song contest song pops into my head. Still waiting for the list of Dutch winners. BHHB-ers; Sverre & Neung, September is neigh… Patricia, nice article. Chris, where were you on April 1st? Da & Dave, more people leaving? Claudia. John, could you send me the patches? Maryanne. Annie & Jock, did you volunteer to send spare parts? lol. Billy and all other Hogerop-ers, u still out there Jaqueline? Wander, your email address is a beer brand over here! Rudi. John. Charles. Glynn. Jeffsky, Canada? soon? JB. Miriam. Jack, where are you? Matthias, have you found your right hand yet? Kong, see you soon, hopefully! Yvonne. Satwant. Silk Shirt Steve, juicer? Apiram (Bee), long time, no see/hear. Apple + kids at Yamsa’ard. Ae, still night riding? Bob, no more sneaky holes? Jerri, everytime I used your sun cream, it has lasted for about 2 months, thanks. Oil, I have been meaning to email you. Jessy. Michael, it must have been the wine. Ilse. Lek. Inga. Anke. Way Moy. Jane. Jane @ BUIC. Brain & Bee. Angela, just because.
If your name is not mentioned above, I may have temporarily forgotten about you (apologies). That is not to say I never think of you! Or just not at this very moment that I am typing this. Please, send me an email to remind me and I will be thinking of you, too!
Please, revise the map!
June 15, 2006 on 22:51
Longshen > Sanjiang, was the plan, but I ended up in: Doujiang (I think). The road to Sanjian should be a high-level highway, both on my local, Chinese map and the usually very accurate German map. It was marked similar to the ones I have been riding for the last couple of days, but to my surprise, it did not quite look the same…
I am not sure if there once was a road, and the tremedously wide river very closely running alongside it has eaten it, or if it just never had existed? Fact of the matter is that there was more mud than anything else (=no asphalt)Â and the road was decorated with the leftovers of various mud/rock slides (very coloufull). The scenery is stunning, beautiful mountains, dotted with dark brown wooden houses …I am still in awe about the power and the width of the river.
On this, suprisingly challenging stretch, I managed to average about 8.5km p/h (I have gone up hills faster…). Maybe the fact that I have muscle aches makes it even more challenging. Funny, how I never seem to get any muscle aches after or whilst riding, but once I start trekking, the Dragon Backbone Rice Terracces, in this case, I usually end up with a week’s worth of muscle ache.
After almost 6 hours, I was pretty fed up, as an added bonus (duh) the rain started to pound on my head as well. I decided to try and make the last few kilometres to Sanjiang anyway. I made it into the civilised world again, but to my surprise Sanjiang was much smaller than imagined… or the map indicated (not that the map has proven to be very accurate in this area…)..
To make up for some of the hardship, I stayed in the cheapest room sofar; 10 Yuan, with shared bathroom and hot shower (but there was no one to share with) and for a change without a tv. Probably a first, usually, no matter how shoddy the room, it always has a tele. The next day it turned out that I am not at all in Sanjiang but probably in Doujiang (but am still not sure about that). Neither locals or any of the maps can confirm…
Another encounter with Murphy
June 18, 2006 on 19:44
Fulu > Congjiang > Xiajiang. At 6.00am a honking bus awakes me, grrrrrrrr. I refuse to get up and stay in bed for a little while longer. Finally, I make it out of the guesthouse at 7.40. An early start for China (unlike Vietnam). I wrestled through the mud for about an hour and then, all of a sudden, out of the blue, there was asphalt. YES, what a blessing! Unfortunately it started just before a little village and ended pretty much after it… A little while later a real road did indeed show up. Hourray!
The joy of riding a real road made of asphalt did not last very long. The road had disappeared underneath a big pile of rock. The road was blocked. There had been a rock/mud slide. What to do? I could go back to the village and take a right turn but that would put me off my route too far. Or I could wait for the road to be cleared. Since the right turn was not even indicated on the map, I decide that waiting would be my best and safest option.
Luckily a shovel (is that what you call it?) had just turned up and the clearing work began. I estimated it would take them about 2 hours to clear the road. I had faith in the amazing equipment and the skills of the driver. I made some pictures and went back to the village a little while back. I bought some more supplies and inquired about the possibilities. All they could say is; “take a right turn” and “take the bus”. Neither option sounded appealing…
I went back to the slide site and waited patiently. Snapping away some more. Now, slowly some people, on foot made their way through the rubble. Luckily the rock was fairly soft and the shovel could crash some of the bigger pieces, except for one humongous rock… It was scratched, pushed, etc, all to no avail… The shovel was switched off and everybody helped out with clearing away the little stuff (so that the big rock may be pushed over the side, into the river).
Since, contrary to the west, the area wa not cordonned off, and it was not only the pros at work, I decided to take a look myself (I would probably be arrested, trying to do that in the west). I figured that if I would unload the bike, I could move evrything over in three runs. I parked my bike at the big rock and took my panniers off. I moved one bag to the other side and to my great thrill and surprise, a man handed me my bike. I went back for the other bag and was on the road again. Believe it or not, this was 2 hours later (11.00).
But the joy did not last very long, when I was about to enter Congjiang it started pouring, and I mean pou-ring!!! For a moment I considered staying, but I had to continue, because my money was running low (some unexpected expenditures had taken out a big chunk of my budget). I was in the boonies and the nearest ATM or bank would be in Kaili. So no time to waste. It was only 13.00 and I should be able to make it to Xiajiang (Rongjiang would be too far) easily. I waited for the rain to stop and continued… well it stopped pouring, that is.
In a drizzle I continued. When I got to a little village my tyre exploded (read: Grinding teeth). I finally made it to Xiajiang (17.00) and was looking for a place to stay. Not always easy, people very often indicate they have no room (which seems very unlikely, since the places are usually fairly big and there are not too many people travelling, incl. locals). So I walked around, inquired and was sent back and forth (luckily it was a small village). After a little while a man asked in perfect English, if he could help me. His English name was Mark and he was an English teacher. Maybe I should reconsider my atheist status…
We went back to a state guesthouse and he inquired on my behalve. “No, no“, was the answer (like before). He started to look for an other place and I asked him, why I could not stay in that guesthouse? He went back and asked, then he told me: “they have no space to store your bike”. I said; “I am happy to share my room with my bike“, in other words, carry it up the stairs. He went back, told them and I could stay!
On other occassions, I could not stay because they had no single rooms. When I suggested to pay for a room (3 beds in that particular case adding up to 30 Yuan, less than 5 dollar) the problem was solved. Solutions are usually very easy, but diagnosing the problem is not.Â
I moved my bike and bags to the room and got ready to take a shower. Earlier a girl had explained to me how to use the gassbottle (scary) for hot water. When I was getting ready to take a shower, I heard a knock on the door. The girl again, I assumed. I quickly threw my sarong over my shoulders (I was still wearing my knicks) and opened the door. Two men in blue uniform entered the room, errr… The Police! (read: Nobody expects… The Police!).
If I were superstitious, I would think that I was not supposed to get to Rongjiang…
A healthier living + Blind faith in the Chinese cook
June 19, 2006 on 22:44
Before I came to China, I was constantly tempted to try deepfried whatever. Now, in China, I cannot resist to test pretty much anything that is hiding in a steam basket, mostly snacks. The buns, I like most, filled with… a surprise, but the dumplings ar not bad either. Sometimes the surprise filling is sweet, sometimes savoury. And that is usually all I can ask about the contents… I have eaten buns filled with: glass noodles, peanuts, sugar, various meat, various vegetables, and combinations of the previously mentioned. hmm!!!
I was doing so well until I got to Kaili. The temptation was too great. At the sidewalks in Kaili they serve great deepfried food. You just sit down, point at want you would like to eat and they prepare it at the spot. Everyone is munching away happily. Me too, me too!!! They served; potatoes (oh, did I miss them!), dried sausages, banana and other stuff, such as tofu, which I have not been tempted to try yet. You dip it into some sweet brown sauce (no, no chocolate, unfortunately), some red powder (cayenne pepper?) or a mixture of brown substance with little green and white pieces. The bananas come with their own sweet cream coloured powder. Yummy! Better get on my bike again quickly!
And the (proper) meals are great too! I have blind faith in the Chinese (female) cook. I can either eat at a place where all the food is displayed and simply point at what I want or, I can go somewhere and tell the cook in charge that I want; rice, vegetables and egg or meat. The meals that they have come up with have sofar been great. I am not sure why, Khun Winchian, almost begged me to only eat noodles. The food is great. They can make a great dish with only the simplest of ingredients.
Note: If there is anything I have learen during this trip, it is to eat with chopsticks. But, I have not quite managed to eat noodle soup with them…
Bangkok - Beijing by bus?
June 20, 2006 on 1:26
Rongjiang > Kaili. Since it probably was not ment to be; bike problems, police, low on money, unreliable maps, etc., I decided to take the bus from Rongjiang to Kaili and refocus.
The girl at the bin guan (guesthouse) had been very helpfull. We went to the bus station together and she inquired about tickets (that was yesterday). Since it was best to buy the tickets on the day itself, we went to the bus station again today. When I asked if it was possible to bring the bike, the driver laughed anbd pointed at the back of the bus. I took the wheels out of the frame and lowered the saddle so the bike would fit in the rear luggagge compartment (and it just did), he gave me the thumbs up! Ready to rock and roll.
Hardcore me, felt a little bad about this move. Bangkok-Beijing by bike would now be Bangkok-Beijing by bike & bus & boat (Cambodia-Vietnam border). At least I have a b-theme going on (a train would be out of the question).
The trip went smooth and it was dry during the whole trip. The view was breathtaking. The bus meandered through the hills and went up to a very high altitude. This would have been a fantastic but major trial (the altitude) by bike, but the road was in a very good condition. This was a b-road according to the map. I guess this area has to be re-mapped.
“Nobody expects … kgrjdhfghrkkg … the Spanish Inquisition!”
June 20, 2006 on 22:43
20.06.06: Or… in this case: “Nobody expects … kgrjdhfghrkkg … the police!”
… I heard a knock on the door. The girl again, I assumed. I quickly threw my sarong over my shoulders (I was still wearing my knicks) and opened the door. Two men in blue uniform entered the room, errr… The Police! (read: another encounter with Murphy).
I had read (yes, I did do some serious research) that there are so called: transit zones in China. Zones where you are only allowed to stay, where you can only; transit. But the rules concerning these areas are very vague, to say the least. Apperantly many officials do not even know where the zones start and finish. So no need asking. Further more, the discussion about biking being transitional or not has not been clarified as of yet.
But since I am not cycling through politically sensitive areas - near Tibet for instance - so I did not expect any problems. But reality is that I am improperly dressed (knicks & draped sarong) and have two blue uniforms in my room (lucky girl, some would say…).
They do not speak much English and I get a speech in Putongua. Right?! All I can say is: boo ming bai (I do not understand). Than they show me a form, that I have to fill in (in Putongua as well, oops…). When they say; identify, identify I show them my passport. They have a very close look at my passport (incl. visa) and start filling in the form. Now how nice is that.
Next they ask me where I am heading for. When I answer they urge me (I think, but cannot be sure 100%) to get there asap. END of visit; za yen! Just in case I hopped o0n the bus and made my way to Kaili, asap of course. Close call?
26.06.06 More Police: another surprise visit, but this time I know what is going to happed. And this time there is someone that helps translating. “The Police is concerned for your safety” Huh? Why? The girl, who has been translating grinnes; “It is for your own good“. ??? The form comes out again and this man is also happy to fill it in on my behalf. “You only have 11 days till the date” The date? 11 days? I guess he means the visa validity, but that is valid for another 17 days! (and then I will just extend it at the PSB for another 45 days). He must have mistaken the issue date with the entry date…
These police men are not wearing any uniforms by the way, and neither introduced themselfves or flashed a badge (or does that only happen in America…). They surprised me when Iwas already in bed (they must have a thing for half naked foreign women… misusing their position, like that.
And more policing: Believe it or not, but just now, a police man (well, the uniform sure looks like it, although he is probably just a government official or something…) peeked over my shoulder (to see what internet site I am watching?). Enough unifroms for me for a while (although the firemen on the roof of their fire engine, today were quite entertaining…)
Grinding teeth
June 20, 2006 on 22:45
… and they were not mine. Lately my bicycle has been producing little squeeks during the rain, which were easily cured with some oil. But later, I heard other sounds, like complaints, agonising, grinding sounds, the mud had taken its toll on my faithful little red two-wheeled friend. All the cleaning seemed in vain. Once the bike was clean, usually in the evening, it was dirty again, pretty much as soon as I climbed on it… And I started hearing other sounds too, the bull bearings… just what I needed, in the middle of the bush.
And it got even worse, it seemed like my bike was heavily protesting; this is NO fun. The back brake started to have difficulties as well. I managed to fix it but soon, very soon, the bike would need some serious professional attention. In the mean time the bike keept protesting. The b-road, I whad been riding on was much better than any of the regular road I had just conquered. But when I was exchanging “hallows” with the locals, my back tyre exploded. Hallow, hallow, phewww!
The hallowing locals had a big laugh. This time, I did not join in. IÂ was happy that this happened in the middle of a village, and not in the bush, but an exploding tyre, is pretty serious (and new to me). I heard them relay the story to the other villagers that had just arrived. “Hallow, hallow, phewww!!!”
Now, I know that a tyre can explode if the rim gets too hot from braking, but this was a flat stretch and I had been pumping the brakes to avoid this from happening.
I taook the wheel out and had a look at the inner tube. Quickly a local man came and lended a hand. He pointed out a cut in the inner tube and worse, a tear in the tyre. I fix the inner and started pumping. When I am finished, the man checks and decided that the tyre is still too soft, so I hand him the pump. When all is done and dusted, and the wheel is ready to be inserted in the frame again; “boom!!!”. Huh?!
OK, stay cool. The holes (plural) are big… OK, new inner tube and try again; the tube peeped through the tear in the tyre, oops. Next? Replace the Taiwanese, semi-slick tyre, with fashionably blue stripe on the side, that I had replaced my Thailand tyres with in Hanoi. I was still carrying the Thailand tyres as spares. Just what I needed. Replace the tyre with the old one and have a pro look at the bike as soon as possible.
In Kaili, my bike received all the attention it needed. Including a new back tyre, loads of oil and greece. It no longer squeeks or produces any other noises. Ready for the next 4000km?
Get me off!
June 26, 2006 on 4:38
Guiyang > Xifeng. Neither of my maps (1 English, 1 bi-langual and 1 Chinese) are detailed enough to get out of town and on the road to Xifeng, so I decide to get out of town and head north (still have to buy a compass). I cross town and end up on the ring road. From there I easily find the highway to Xifeng, but not the b-road I am supposed to be using. Usually the b-road is the old road and you can choose to either take the highway or the b-road when you get near the tollbooths. But not today… I ask various locals for directions, but they all point in the direction of the highway. I can already see the tollbooths, but no road alongside them. The locals persist and when the last one I queried said: just follow that bus, I decide to make my way to the tollbooths and ask there. When I arrive at the tollbooth, I show the girl inside it my map and point at a city (note: this is my Chinese map) somewhere north of Guiyang. She indicates that it is 36km (sun-shir-lyo-koongee), thank you very much, goodbye. Huh? Just past her booth a policeman halts me. Where are you going? Is he finally going to give some proper directions? Again I point at the map. He looks strict but points straight ahead, at the highway…Â
I am totally baffled, at the entrance of the highway there are two very clear signs (even to me; they are pictograms), one indicating that pedestrians are not allowed on the highway and another one indicating that the same goes for bicycles (on the sign, no rider depicted though)… Forward! I feel a little unsettled (naughty?). In the Netherlands, I would not even get this far and if I did, I would be arrested at the first possible opportunity. But if the police gives me the thumbs up, it must be fine, but what about my safety?Â
To my surprise, the traffic is not bad at all. I have to share the side lane with road sweepers and people waiting for busses and mini-vans. The lane next to me is steadily going but not manically. The lane next to that is obviously the fast lane. A little uneasy about this new experience, I try to enjoy it. This road, the straight arrow through the landscape, is similar to the ones that I have been looking at enviously, when I was on the long and whining road, climbing, yet another hill. I quickly find out that this road is still going up and down, but not as extreme as the b-roads and much more gradual.Â
So what to do next? Go all 36km? The road is very boring and there is not much distraction, no little villages with drink & snack stops. Various police cars pass, but none of them halt me. When I hear a siren behind me, my heart skips a beat. How the h*** am I going to explain this… thinking this an ambulance passes, phew! Once you are on a highway, well, try and get off. Easier said than done. One cannot go back and the exits usually are very far apart (relatively of course, but it surely seems that way by bike). I decide to give the 1st exit a miss, because I cannot trace it on the map.Â
Eventually I end up riding the 36km as indicated by the girl. There the village is marked on my maps and a b-road meanders through the landscape. Back to the good old, familiar long and winding road. The reappreciation of the long and winding road. GO!
“My son speaks English very well!”
June 28, 2006 on 22:56
Zunyi. Jack (thank you English teacher) did indeed speak English very well (and so did his mother, communicating this to me). When I was updating my diary in Zunyi, along the river on a nice shady bench, some people positioned themselves around me. Initially I did not even realise they did, until someone said; English? and pointed at my writing.
Yes, English! And you speak English, as well! It always makes me very happy if I can communicate in English (and slightly embarrassed that I cannot do so in Putongua…). She very proudly announced that her son spoke English very well and phoned him on the spot. In the meanwhile, I was trying to make some conversation with some of the other people, using my phrase book and my specially designed; bangkok-beijing by bike business cards.
Moments later, Jack joined us. From than onwards it was English, English, English. I was asked; have you eaten yet? Usually the first thing people ask and possibly the equivalent to: how are you? Jack’s mother invited, to join them and have lunch at their place. An offer I very happily accepted. We walked a little and arrived at their apartment. On the left and right side of the door and on the top, there were red banners, as on most houses in China.
It was a cosy home and within no time the house was filled with the apetising smell of feast (and within no time!). And when Jack’s father arrived we started the meal. The meal consisted of; scrabled eggs with tomato, boiled eggs (white & black), chilli beans (yummie!!!), cabbage, rabbit, pickled vegetables and of course boiled rice. In the west we very often use the same or similar ingredients, but it tastes so much better here. It must be the use of spices and secret ingredients.
After lunch, they asked if I had any plans. Not really. Would you like to join us, we go to a monument/mountain. Great. We all got into the minivan (my first time in a car in China) and Jack’s father dropped us of at the mountain (on the way to his work). We climbed a huge amount of stairs, before we finally reached the monument. From there onwards we walked in the shade and made a way to a lovely spot, under the trees, where we had tea.
During and after tea, we talked and talked. When we made our way back, they also invited me for dinner (my lucky day!). Jack’s younger cousin and friend joined us for dinner as well. Salted beans with chillis (local speciality and even better than the chilli beans), pancakes, sweet buns, boiled eggs, pickled vegetables, rabbit and rice porridge.
There also were some little tofu like squares of some kind, when they could not explain what it was, I decided to just try. Before they could stop me, I had a whole piece in my mouth. IEHHHHHHHHH!!!! Little did I know. I was not supposed to take a whole piece, just a little. I still do not know what it was but it was very, very salty.
After dinner I went through Jack his dvd and book collection. He also showed me his English books. It seems that their comprehensive and writing skills are much more developed than their verbal skills (and Jack his verbal skills were fab!). He loves European books and likes to read the writings of European artists and intellectuals. His favourites baing Freud and Ibsen.
Thanks again for this fabulous day Jack & family.
Top 3: Warm Welcome(s)
June 29, 2006 on 3:40
3. Warm Welcome: Yangshuo, Guanxi Province.
2. Warmer Welcome: Xifeng, Guizhou Province.
1. Warmest Welcome: Zunyi, Guizhou Province.
Marry me!
June 29, 2006 on 22:54
When I arrived in Xifeng, I inquired about a bin guan pyenee (cheap hostel). Two girls offer to bring me to one. We walked around town and after a little while, indeed a bin guan was visible at the end of the street. Somehow, they all look the same; a very empty room with a desk, sometimes various clocks on the wall (indicating times in various big cities) and sometimes a couch.
A girl welcomed me and showed me (and the two girls) the room. Unfortunately there were no rooms with a privat toilet and shower so I decide to have another look around town. The two girls seemed happy to show me another hostel. I left me bike at the hostel (I would absolutely come back if the other hostel was no good, it was very nice, clean and the girl was very helpful & friendly).
The girls decided that they wanted a picture with me (to commemorate this happy day? lol). We asked a lady to take some pictures and in return she wanted to be in a picture, with me as well. The girls wanted a copy and had no email, so I decided to go to a photoshop and have them printed. We walked in and out within 5 minutes, with three plastificated pictures. Everyone happy. The girls quickly showed me another hostel, which was kind of dark and dodgy (and more expensive), so we made our way back to the 1st hostel.
When we arrived at the first hostel, the girl informed me that her father told her to offer me the room for 10 Yuan less. Great surprise! Thanks! The girls helped me to carry all my stuff upstair and made themselves at home. One of the girls wanted to play. Note: Neither of them spoke much English, but hand & feet in combination with the phrasebook worked perfectly.
I told them that I wanted to take a shower, but we could meet again in the evening. OK! 19.00. At 18.30 the (hostel) girl came up and invited me to have dinner with her mother and brother. Note: I am hopeless with names, I really should ask people to write their names in pinyin for me. When I was in the middle of the meal the 2 girls arrived (eager to play, I guess), 15 minutes early. I finished dinner and we went into town.
One of the girls took my phrasebook (people just love to browse through them) and showed me the page with the phrase; Marry me! Huh? Did she think I was a man? What to make of this. When I told her I could not marry her because we were both women, her face turned sour… I guess, In Chinese the sentence probably had another meaning (as well). In the meanwhile the other girl pointed out all strategic points, shop, internet cafe, etc. We finished our walk through town at the town square, with some fiarground attractions.
Later the ladies of the village (and some men, but not many) started dancing on the square. Whilst I was watching, the girls went and had their dinner. They returned with a mango shake, for me, yummie!
The brought me back “home” where the father invited me to sit down and have a little talk, with the help of his daughter, who wants to become a doctor and speaks English very well. A neighbour joined, with her nitting work and another with her little puppy.
Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces + Chenyang Wind & Rain Bridge
June 29, 2006 on 23:03
Old, (so the date is incorrect) but not published yet… with pictures on the linked pages!
“The Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces is 27 kilometers from Long Sheng County, and it is 80 kilometers from Guilin city. The total area of this scenic spot is 66 square kilometers. The altitudes of the terraces vary between 300 meters & 1100 meters with sloping grades between 26 degrees and 35 degrees. The steepest slope is 50 degrees. Although there are terraces everywhere in the mountain areas of South China, it is extremely rare to see a terrace as big as the dragon ridge terrace.“
“Chengyang Bridge is also called Yongji Bridge or Panlong Bridge. It was built in 1916, and it is the best one among the wind and rain bridges in Dong stockade villages. At present, it is the largest wind and rain bridge also it is the crystal of Dong people’s wisdom; it is one of the artistic precious things of Chinese wood architectures.
This bridge is made of wood and stone, making it a large bridge stretching across the Linxi River, having 5 stone-made large columns. Fir and wood board cover the surface of the bridge. Moreover, the bridge is 64.4 meters long, 3.4 meters wide and 10.6 meters high.
Both sides of the bridge are inlayed with railing, so the whole bridge looks like a long corridor; in the bridge, there are 5 tower-like kiosks with many horns. The brims of the kiosks rise like stretching wings; the pilaster, tile brims and carved flower and pictures are magnificent.”
text source: travelchinaguide.com
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